Top Heavy Rappellers:
Rappelling is the most dangerous thing that we do on rope. Using a rappel rack or any type of rappel device requires two hands and focused concentration.
One hand should be placed on the rope below the rappel device, either squeezing the rope for added friction, or pressing the rope against one’s hip for added friction. This brake hand should also channel the rope to insure it enters the rappel device smoothly and at the right angle. Grabbing and pulling down hard on the rope can affect a full stop. If the rope drops through the rappeller’s legs this function requires great skill (as the brake hand is no longer at the hip) so the rappeller does not lose control as they descend. It is obvious that this one hand has a lot to do.
The other hand (control hand) is either placed on the bottom two bars being used to adjust speed and control or above a Figure 8 rappel device for balance.
Top Heavy:
If one is top heavy or has a barrel chest, a third hand is required to hold ones self upright. Not having a third hand complicates one or both of the other functions! Some people are so top heavy it may require both hands and arms to hold their self upright. Unfortunately, if this happens, all the other things don’t. The rappel will be slow, come to a complete stop, or it will turn into a run away, screaming, out-of-control slide of death. By definition a rappel should be controlled.
A few people have mastered the skill of holding themselves upright with both hands, while adjusting the bottom two bars, thus controlling speed. But, this is a dangerous alternative. Also, never wear a back pack while rappelling. It adds to the upper body mass causing the top heavy problem to be even worse.
1. The easiest method or way to solve rappelling problems is to not rappel. But, since this may not be a first choice, keep it in reserve as an option. It could be the best choice in the end.
2. Another obvious solution falls in the category of losing weight. This too is not the typical popular choice so let’s look at others.
3. Change your harness to one that has a high attachment point. This will probably mean loosening the legs and girthing the waist belt component. This leaves the user feeling less secure with their primary support elements (the legs) not tightly secured.
4. Wearing a full body harness that has a chest or sternum attachment is a good option. Many professionals with barrel chests resort to the fully integrated harness that allows the user to attach the rack near the user’s sternum.
To make this whole thing work comes down to changing the rappeller’s center of gravity as defined by their attachment point. (typically, the rappeller’s seat harness) In choices number 3 and 4 above the suggestion directly implies changing this center of gravity point.
5. A chest harness can be used in a variety of ways to help hold the climber upright. Clipping a carabiner from a simple Figure 8 Chest Harness to a rack could work but it has draw backs. The Figure 8 Chest when pulled outward from the body will cut or cause painful pressure on the sides of the rappeller’s neck. This low-tech approach will yield bad results.
Note: This low-tech approach can cut or cause painful pressure on the side of the rappeller’s neck.
6. A better option is an upper body sculptured “H” harness so the pull, or forces, emanate from the shoulders not around the sides of the neck. Once you have a sculptured “H” harness (sculptured means that the harness is form fitted to the rappeller’s upper body—do not try and do this with thin narrow pack strap, small narrow webbing with the dimensions of dental floss or some kind of Kevlar Cord that will feel like steel bailing wire) attach your chest harness to your rack.
This style of sculptured harness is best for comfort and support.
Clipping to the Rack: (Thus supporting the chest)
There are two places that it is permissible to clip a carabiner into a rack—the nose of the rack or the eye of the rack.
The attached carabiners are clipped where it is permissible to attach to the rack and remain safe.
Some people’s large chest mass will not allow them to snug up their seat harness low enough to clip the nose of the rack into the chest harness (the more preferable spot) and are forced to clip the eye of the rack into the chest harness with a carabiner. This puts the rappeller into secure position but places the rappeller into a laid back cradle position. It is still possible to control the rappel, but not like those early days when the rappeller may have been thinner.
Attaching the rack to both a chest harness and a seat harness, puts the rappeller into a laid back, even horizontal position.
Note: It is important to never clip a carabiner between any of the bars as this eliminates the user’s ability to slide the bars up and down the rack thus seriously reducing the ability to control speed.
7. Never hang directly from a chest harness. However, it is okay to hang from a chest harness that is hanging from a seat harness. Think of the chest harness as a redirection.
Caption: Extending a life rated connector strap from a sculptured chest harness to the seat harness can allow a rappeller to safely hang from the sternum position without hanging from one’s armpits.
Using a sculptured chest harness with soft loops, like those available from On Rope 1, or Petzl’s Voltige, secure a Delta screw link to the chest harness. Connect the seat harness with the chest harness using an adjustable life support connector strap. Secure the seat harness tightly. Then pre-tension the connector strap and connect your rack to the Delta link. The link and connection point need to be as low as it can be adjusted so the user can reach all the bars and control points of their rack, including the nose. Pre-hang in the system 6 inches off the ground to adjust the final tension of the connector strap. Chest harness forces should be comfortable and not cutting or tug under the armpits. Your body weight should not be felt by the chest harness rather only the deviation force. Do not use a connecting carabiner link between the Delta and the eye of the rack, as this places the rack too high in the air. You should be able to adjust the connector strap while wearing it to alleviate undesirable pressure.
This is by far the best option. It allows the rappeller to remain upright, use both hands freely and allows the user to maintain control during the entire rappel.
8. In the 1980’s Horton Hobbs suggested a top rack bar that looks like a hyperbar of sorts, except that it extends toward the user’s chest. The end of this bar has a hole drilled into it so a cord could be tied through it and then secured to a user’s chest harness. These are hard to find, but work if the rappeller is not too top heavy.
The top bar can be drilled with a Hobbs Hole and a short cord attached to the rappeller’s chest harness can possibly add support.
9. If none of these options work - don't rappel!
Final Thought
Always practice new skills and new ideas close to the ground and in a way that you can be lowered quickly in the event that something gets attached in a way as to be painful or dangerous.